Upper Kentmere and the Ullstone

(5.75 miles)

(Walked from the Guide Book 'South Lakeland')

March 2008

 

A walk which leads you into the heart of the Kentmere Valley where our half way point meets the reservoir, circled by the steep slopes of the Kentmere Horseshoe that dominates the walk. The summit is over 1500ft in height, so though not reaching the majestic airy lofts of the surrounding mountains, the view back down the Valley is a grand one indeed.

Parking above Kentmere village, past Green Quarter towards Hallow Bank we set off on a cold but bright day, with snow showers an ever constant threat. The way up is along the Nan Bield Pass which is a rugged path which leads you onwards up the rising slopes of the 'Tongue' and towards Smallthwaite Knott. The views are good, and the ascent easy at first before steepening as the path rises towards our dangling carrot, The Ullstone. Seemingly insignificant when seen from afar, it provided us with an aim as we trudged up the grassy slope. The wind had now began to whip at our coats, gusting quite sharply and icely as we crossed over to the shelter of the boulder across the wild grassy fell.

The rock provided adequate shelter from the ever strengthening wind as we sipped on our coffee and gazed out onto the valley spread before us. A mine, dug out from a ravine nearby posed questions on what it must have been like to work in such bitter conditions. Old paths could be seen branching down the valley. Hail and sleet showers began to drift past us, creating an entirely different mood as the fells took a more somber appearance. We could see walkers on the tops, bent low as they walked into the teeth of the wind and sleet, not sure whether to admire or pity them for being so foolish to be up so high in such unpleasent conditions.

We made a dash for it when the sun came out and crested the rise and into an attack that nearly drove us to the ground. The wind seemingly waiting for us to round the bend before launching a full scale assault. Blurred photographs were taken as we began to descend down to the reservoir on a pathless spongy slope. The views were impressive, even if they were obliterated by sweeping hail and sleet that blew horizontally at us.

Turning back down the valley, around the reservoir and with the showers behind us we made our way down the main path that leads past the old abandoned quarries and past cottages that stand guard near the valley head. The path is good and the walking easy as fellow walkers heading the opposite way passed us. Some were to be found hunkering in the lee of stone walls, cheerfully munching on sandwiches whilst others were not seen at all, buried under goretex layerings.

Evidently it was Irish Labourers who built the reservoir in 1845, to supply water to the mills in the valley, who frequented the Low Bridge Inn in Kentmere. Causing much merriment and revelling by all accounts and so resultiing its license being revoked. This is probably why Kentmere is one of the few Lakeland Villages without a public house. Later i silently cursed them as a pint infront of a warm fire would have gone down a treat.

The sun flickered it's last rays as we made our way back to the car. A good walk, a stiff walk to be sure. One that i would recommend on a dry and calm day when the scenery can be enjoyed at a more leisurely pace. And certainly on a crisp, clear day when no haze is present, then the pikes of Ill Bell, Rainsborrow Crag, Forswick and Lingmell End really do look their best. A walk to come back to...