Duddon Furnace to Swinside Circle

(6 miles)

(Walked from the Guide Book 'West Lakeland')

April 2008

 

As with some of our other walks mentioned on this site, this shortish remote hike again lets you glimpse at eras gone by. From the outset we only have to walk 100 yards before bumping into the imprssive Duddon Furnace. Off a minor road which is just past the Duddon Bridge on the A595 it was restored in 1992 by the National Park Authority and English Heritage and demands a look around before the walk proper begins.

Iron ore was mined in Furness and West Cumbria from the middle ages onwards, and smelted in primative hearths or bloomeries, generally in places where large quantities of charcoal were readily available. In the 18th Century, blast furnaces revolutionised the smelting process. Large furnaces were built, consuming large amounts of ore and fuel, and harnessing water power to drive bellows pumping air into the combustion chamber.

Duddon Ironworks was established by the Cunsey Company in 1736 and operated through to 1866, using locally produced charcoal as fuel. It is the most complete surviving example of an iron producing site with a charcoal-fired blast furnace. Pig iron cast here was sent to Chepstow and Bristol where it was used in the manufacture of anchors, chains and other iron work for ships.

The furnace stack was 29 feet high and built of local stone, and charged from above. Water powered bellows were attached at the base. The water wheel is missing, but the course of the leat has been traced, bringing water from the river half a mile upstream. Higher up the hill is the charcoal store, 100 feet in length, and as high as a church.

After closure in 1866, the site became derelict. An information panel gives a description of the various parts of the furnace.

Following the bridleway we turned left into the beginning of a lovely woodland before crossing a stream and continuing to the right, our return path seen on the left. The path rises and zigzags up through the woods until a fell gate is reached. Here we continued uphill, past the sleeping bracken until we came out on an old fell bridleway with budding views before us. The estuary can be seen on the left as we skirted a few boggy patches and we made our way up the walled path which ended at another gate.

Crossing over to the left we crossed the fell side and then darted right up into a small valley groove that funneled us up to a small tarn that sat in isolated splender looking over the Coniston mountains. Veering left up the sheep trodden fellside we simply made a beeline straight up to the summit of Barrow.

The views are sweeping in effect, and with the clouds being so low and bold in appearance the atmosphere up there was wonderful. A real sense of solitude was felt as we hunkered down out of the stiff breeze for our lunch. The next point of reference was a cairn with a pole stuck in it on the horizon. From where the road below could be seen, signalling our next aim.

When reached we crossed over and started down a large farm access road which serenely took us onwards to Swinside Farm. Our way was interupted though by a newly born lamb and mother who were on the track. The mother lept up the banking out of our way as we tried to veer round out of their way. The lamb though came stumbling over to us, trying to find sustanance by nipping my trousers. We left it alone and looking back were glad to see mother and lamb reunited.

Making our way through the farm and the variety of farm life that was wondering about we finally came to the highlight of the walk another 400 yards down the track. The Swinside Stone Circle.

This compact circle of 55 stones is one of the finest stone circles of Western Europe, dating from the Bronze Age. There is a well-defined entrance at the south-east, where there are two portal stones outside the circumference with apparently a midwinter sunrise marker looking from the centre of the circle at the two southernmost portal stones. The tallest stone of the circle is 2.3m (7ft 6ins) high; it weighs about 5 tons and it stands almost exactly at the north.   Excavations at the beginning of the century showed that the stones are bedded in a layer of packed pebbles. The site is also known as Sunkenkirk because the Devil is said to have pulled down at night the stones of a church that was being built during the day.

As stones go these are imprssive, more so i think then the ones at Castlerigg. Though not as large as Castlerigg, Swinside has an air of remoteness, away from the tourists and ice-cream vans it looks as if the people who built them had just left that day. Suitably impressed we forged on down the track, musing to what they were used for.

We followed the track to stile on the left by a house and followed it to some stepping stones that we were meant to cross, the river being swollen and me having the worst wet stone boots on we wimpishly declined and made our way back. Following the lane to a junction and then turning left to meet up with the farm track we were meant to be on.

We walked along the main road for 100 yards before diving down to a large group of houses set back, then through a stile to enter a lovely bluebell wood. We were about 2 to 3 weeks to early to see them in bloom, but could guess what a gorgeous site it must be when they are all out in flower. Next year we'll time it better. This path simply led us down to the path leading to the Furness where we began.

Thus ending an interesting walk which diviates away from the crowds and visits more lonely fell tops and mystic stone circles which are a stark contrast to the might of the Furness.