The Old Coach Road which forms the beginning and end to this walk was the main Penrith to Keswick road before the present road was built and provides a real sense of history along with the disused quarries that litter the way. The walk is not for the faint of heart as it traverses the side of Clough Head on a narrow path. Though this is indeed the only part of the walk that sets the heart racing, and presents no real danger, a head for heights is needed as part of the path is loose scree. Once done, the way is easy and gives fantastic panoramic views of North East Lakeland.

Beginning by Wanthwaite Bridge in St John's Vale on a gloriously sunny but bitter day we followed the route across the main road which tags onto the Old Coach Road opposite for a short while. Wonderful views are had from the start as the old road rises past Hill Top Farm and Quarry before reaching a memorial seat which overlooks Skiddaw and Blencathra across the Glenderamackin Valley.

Tearing ourselves away from the panorama before us we clambered up the step pathless grassy slope which leads past a fenced quarry. A path is joined which is followed right across the slope of the fell until a step ladder is reached. Great views are seen down the valley which has seen its fair share of floods. In 1749 many bridges and houses were swept away which has resulted in the steep banks by the river that flows through the valley floor.

Turning sharp left onto a large sunken green path the way now climbs smoothly upwards towards Threlkeld Knotts. Castlerigg Stone Circle can be seen behind (west) above and left of the white buildings of Goosewell Farm. Frequent stops are made to gaze at the soul enhancing views as the path winds its way onto the beginning of the traverse. A short cut can be had by climbing Threlkeld Knotts on the obvious path to the left and continuing to the Old Coach Road beyond.

The beginning of the traverse is easy and climbs steadily upwards. Soon though the scree cuts into the path which falls away sharply to your right, care is needed here but don't be put off, just be careful! Finally the top of the traverse is reached, bringing rewards of wonderful views of Derwant Water and the Solway estuary to the north-west.

The path is abandoned here to branch off to the left towards the summit of Clough Head across a pathless fellside. The way upwards is easy with only low scrub which is soft underfoot to contend with. A small trod appears and the way soon becomes clear as a final rise is breached and the trig point is seen straight ahead.

The views are extensive, and thanks to a small sheltered wall, a rest and a well earn't coffee break is gratefully accepted. Up until this point we saw not a soul, as i foolishly mentioned. At that moment two fell runners appeared over the horizon, trotting up to us. Pleasent comments were passed and they soon jogged off on their merry way. Not 10 seconds after another soul appeared and came to enjoy the view, before wandering off in the direction we came upon. Now, i am not at all adverse to seeing other people enjoying the fells, but having spent over half the walk seemingly having the fell to ourselves this small intrusion seemed like a bus load of holiday makers. This is the effect that this walk has on you, though smack bang in the middle of the lakes, it can seem as if you are the only people for miles and miles around. I apologise to these polite folk for my perhaps gruff manner, i blame my surroundings totally.

The summit is reluctantly left as a good path is followed to the rocky cone of White Pike. The Old Coach Road can be seen wandering off into the distant Glenderamackin Valley, perched in places on high ground as it winds its way across the boggy moor. This in perhaps my favourite view of the entire walk as it is one that is in stark contrast to what is considered the traditional lakeland view. The valley seems to go on forever and a feeling of solitude is felt as you wonder who ventured across this road in days gone by.

The book suggested coming off the pike to the right and towards an old railway carriage. The way is down the side of the fell and is pathless, but easy to walk down. The carriage itself comanding great views of the valley beyond, but rustic in charm. We poked around inside but found no treasure hidden, carefully closing the door behind us as if we had entered a sacred church.

The Old Coach road can be seen below and on reaching it we turned left to follow it back to the car. This road is not only used by walkers, but also by cyclists and motorcyclists, so keep one eye out for speedy figures appearing around the sweeping bends. The walking is easy and pleasent as you round the fellside with Blencathra looming ahead.

The road takes you past a dissused quarry and continues until you find yourself back at the memorial seat from where we branched right up the fellside. Bringing almost to an end a great walk that done out of season can lead you into a part of lakeland where you could find yourself alone with only the ghosts of the Coach Road as company. Recommended.